Hey everybody! Another week is gone and Easter is nearly here. I think I’m gonna spend the few days I’ll have off sewing and hopefully eating loads of chocolate! What have you planned instead for the holidays?
Last week I’ve shown you my first pair of culottes, today I’ve another one! I’m in a serious culottes-mode at the moment and I can’t wait to get my hands on the new Butterick and Vogue patterns for more options. Here in Australia we are a pattern season behind and I’m itching to buy the new releases!
For this second try, I wanted something with a bit less flare than the Tanias, just to play a bit with the width of the legs and also with a different shape. I was curious to see how I’d look in a slightly slimmer culottes, so here they are. As you may guess, I’m still trying to understand which style suits me the best.
This is an adaptation of M6760. It’s a jumpsuit pattern, but it wasn’t hard to modify to get a pair of culottes out of it. I’ve basically traced the leg pattern pieces and shortened them by 31cm, slashing and overlapping so the bottom is still the original width. I then trued the side seams and that’s it.
To get the fit right, I’ve done a 2 cm sway back/flat derrière adjustment, removing the excess just below the back seam allowance, tapering to nothing at the sides. Also, as I chose the size based on my hips measurements (size 8), I’ve narrowed the seam allowance to 1 cm at the side seams at the waist, gaining the 2 cm total I needed there. I’ve also left out the inseam pockets as I really don’t use them a lot and I prefer the look of classic trousers pockets better.
Looking at the pants spread open, I probably could have reduced the crotch length of a few cm. As I said, this pattern is designed to be a jumpsuit and therefore the crotch has to be longer to allow for movements, when joined to the bodice. If I’m gonna make another pair, I’ll give this modification a go.
For the waistband I’ve used the BHL Charlotte Skirt pattern piece as I l really like its width. When I sew it in thou, it was gaping a bit so I’ve stitched a dart in correspondence of the side seams, creating a sort of shaped waistband. You might also have noticed – or maybe not because it should be invisible! – that I’ve moved the zipper to the side. This was completely a boo boo, as I’ve accidentally sewn the center back seam close and serged it. Instead of removing all the stitching, I’ve moved the zipper. Not a big deal, I think.
For a neater and nicer inside, for the first time, I’ve used some bias binding to finish the edge of the waistband facing. Why I’ve never done it before?? It looks so professional! No more trying to blindly catch the folded facing while stitching in the ditch from the right side for me, thank you very much.
The fabric I’ve used is a floral cotton sateen left over from my BHL Georgia Dress. I really like the print and it is the perfect weight for bottoms. This sateen holds beautifully the wide legs shape, without collapsing and draping too much. To accentuate the width of the legs even more, I’ve hemmed the culottes with 5 cm horsehair braid, which I was able to find in this lovely matching gray. I bought it online from a millinery shop and they carry all the colors in three different width and I was really tempted in buying every single one!
I’m very happy with the look of this culottes, but I probably prefer the Tanias. Maybe I could try to sew them up using this kind of material and see how they look. I’ve another cotton sateen with big blue flowers that would be perfect. What do you think? Too much body for the Tanias? Tell me.