Hey everybody, how are you doing? My week didn’t start exceptionally well as my throat is in flames and I feel pretty floppy, but I’m sure I’ll get better soon! Let’s talk about something more cheerful, shall we? Have you seen the latest addition to the Grainline Studio patterns? It’s the amazing Morris blazer which can be made up both in knit and stretch woven fabrics. I was very excited when I first saw it and I became even more excited when I found the right fabric in my stash. I bought this double knit on Etsy, from Miss Matatabi, and I love it. It’s extremely soft, has polka dots and on top of that is double face! Perfection, if you ask me. As you can see, I’ve chosen the navy side as the dominant color and used the ivory side as contrast for the collar and sleeves facings.
I decided to skip making a muslin because I was using a knit fabric, but I know I’ve forward shoulders so I’ve adjusted the paper pattern right away. I’ve pivoted the shoulder line, moving it forward by 1 cm and also moved by the same amount the sleeve cap, so the notches would still match up, and I think it all worked out ok. I’ve also lengthened the body pieces by 2.5 cm because I like my jackets to cover my waist as I can’t stand getting cold around that part of my body. Apart from that, I cut a straight size 8. I’ve chosen the size that fit better my bust and shoulders area, even if my waist measurement fall in a size 6. I think the little extra room at the bottom doesn’t affect the look of the blazer and I’m happy with the fit.
The sleeves are slightly falling off my shoulders, but I think it’s all fault of the stretch in the material I’ve used and I’m confident they’d look all right in a more stable knit or stretch woven. If I’m gonna make this patterns again in a knit fabric, I’m gonna stabilize the shoulder seams with some tape, which I totally forgot to do this time. I might add some if they keep stretching out of shape, we’ll see what happens.
Sewing together this blazer was quite enjoyable and easy and the whole construction is very clever. The only thing I might do differently – above all if using a woven material – is sewing the sleeve facings and understitch them before sewing together the sleeve itself. I find the process of stitching small circumferences very annoying and I rather avoid it when I can. I’ve to admit I’ve cut deeper facings, as I wanted to roll up the sleeves to show the other side of the fabric, so probably it contributed in making that step even more ‘painful’. Anyhow, not big deal.
As other bloggers already noted – see the cute versions of the Morris by Lizzy and Ginger – the front facings tend to collapse towards the bottom, probably because of the weight of the collar, creating some sagging lines. To avoid that, I’ve hand stitched them down and the problem was solved. I tried to use the sewing machine, but the two lawyers of fabric kept shifting creating even more unwanted ripples and it didn’t look nice at all, so catch stitching it was.
I’m really curious to make a stretch woven version of the Morris, even if sleeves in less stretchy material are not exactly my best friends. I’m still trying to fix my shirt, which is now hanging in a corner, full of pins, waiting for me to become brave enough so I can deal with it. I really hope this pattern is gonna work for me because it’s the perfect shape/weight for this season in this sort of climate – not too heavy and easy to wear on top of t-shirts.
I’m on the lookout for a nice stretch linen in a sort of magenta/wine color but it looks like it’s impossible to find so I might need to direct my searches towards a stretch cotton sateen instead. Which means I’ll probably end up buying some more floral sateen. Whatever.