Sewing

Grainline Studio / Morris in Gold

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Time for another Morris, everyone! I’ve got a good excuse though: the pattern is drafted to suit knit as well as stretch woven fabrics, so I just needed to check the look of this blazer in both of them.
For this second version, I’ve used a stretch sort of denim/twill in an awesome shade of gold. The color isn’t too yellow and I’d say it’s pale enough to be worn every day without looking too dressy. I really like it. The only downside of this material, it’s its stiffness and lack of drape, which created a more rigid blazer. That said, it’s still very comfy and easy to wear.

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This Morris isn’t actually for me, but for my sister. We’re lucky to fit in pretty much the same size clothes, so I’ve sewn it up in the same size as my polka dots one, which has plus 2.5 cm to the body length. I’ve also left there the forward shoulder adjustment as I want to believe my sister has my same posture problems. All right, let me be honest, I shamelessly hope she doesn’t like this sparkly jacket and she’s gonna send it back to me, so I can wear it!

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Anyhow, to tone down the all-gold look, I’ve added some cream piping to the collar seam and, because I like things to be match-y match-y, I’ve also finished the inside edges with cream bias binding. It was my first time using piping and everything went together very smoothly. I honestly thought it would have been way more difficult to handle, but I’ve probably chosen an easy fabric to work with, which made the task easier. Also, the piping helped keeping the collar into shape, preventing stretching.

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Unfortunately I can’t say the same for the bias binding I’ve used to finish the facings. Of course, binding with no stretch bias a stretch fabric isn’t ideal and it definitely gave me a hard time. The more difficult part was trying to finish the cuffs off and in the end I’ve just removed the bias and folded under the seam allowances as per pattern instructions. Next time I know better!

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I’d like to mention, I’ve finally been able to put my hands on some stretch fusible interfacing, which I bought in a little shop here in Mackay. It’s not as stretchy as I though it would be, but it certainly has more give than a regular one. I thought the fact I’ve used stable interfacing for my first Morris was the cause of the pooling at the blazer hem, but it happened this time too. Jen, in her sewalong, mentioned to add the interfacing to the front pieces too, to help stabilize the fabric, but I already started sewing so I had to skip the suggestion. Again, next time I know better. Instead I’ve catch stitched the facings down and solved the problem. On this woven plain color fabric, the stitches are more visible than in my previous version, but I don’t mind seeing those little dots/stitches, they remind me it’s a handmade garment. Right?

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Also, as I don’t like dealing with sewing small circumferences, I’ve sewn and understitched the cuff facings to the sleeves before setting those in. I really find it easier this way and again, I’ve stitched the facings in place by hand instead of by machine, just to keep things coherent.
Lastly, to prevent the shoulders from stretching out of shape, I’ve added a strip of thin ribbon to the seams. I’ve seen this step in basically every knit pattern I’ve done so I thought it would be a good idea use the same trick for this pattern too. It probably doesn’t make any difference, but it didn’t take me long and it didn’t add too much bulk to the seam either, so I think I’d do it again.

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I’m happy to finally have had the time to sew a stretch woven Morris and I’m very surprised it fits me pretty well, without too much fussing around with alterations. I’m even more surprised by the sleeves’ fit: if this gold number was mine, I could actually wear it and move my arms without problems, one of the things I’m always afraid of when I sew sleeved garments. I reckon all the folds you see on my sleeves are mainly caused by the heaviness of the fabric and not because of some fitting issue. Wow, at least I hope so!

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This is definitely not my last Morris, I tell you. In fact I’ve already bought some textured black wool knit for my third one. This time I might try to lengthen the sleeves to full length for a more year round blazer. It is a really great pattern! What’s your favorite one at the moment? And which one would you recommend for me to try?

8 thoughts on “Grainline Studio / Morris in Gold

    1. Thank you, Lizzy! She’s lucky, but I’m lucky too – she lives in Brazil now so she often send me Brazilian stuff, hawaianas, Melissa….ahhhh shoes!

  1. That’s lovely, and I am so impressed with your finish, I find getting a good finish on knits difficult. I’m making my second jalie 2921 which is a bow blouse in silk jersey, it a lovely fit.

    1. Thanks Mags! This blazer wasn’t that hard to finish as is made out of stretch woven fabric, but I agree with you, finishing very stretchy fabrics isn’t that easy. That blouse you’re making is really lovely! Thanks for the heads up!

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