BHL Lovechild || The Zeenalex

Let me tell you straight away how much I love this dress! It has been quite a journey find the right pattern to fulfill the idea of Xmas dress I had in my head, but in the end all went well.

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This fabric is a cotton sateen I bought in Australia from Spotlight, one of my last material purchases down under, and the second I saw it I knew it would have to become a Xmas outfit of some sort. I’m sure it’s because of these big red flowers scattered over the black background – in my mind they’re perfect for the holiday season.

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At the beginning I wanted this cotton to be a BHL Flora Skirt (which I’ve already made a couple of times, here and here), but the fabric had been cut extremely crooked and basically I had to discard about 15cm each side to get it on grain. I was quite annoyed, mainly because I really couldn’t get back there to just buy one more meter, but instead of winging, I searched another pattern and modified my original plans. And as you may know, if you say party dress, it has to BHL!

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For the bodice I’ve used my TNT Elisalex, of which you can read all about it in this post here. It has been a while since the last time I made it, but the fit of that particular dress is still pretty much perfect (for my liking, of course!), so for this version I’ve used the same identical pattern pieces. The only adjustment needed was to make the waist a bit bigger in order to fit all the holidays lunches and dinners, so I’ve narrowed the seam allowances to 1cm around that area. I also slightly modified the princess seams around the apex, to achieve a closer fit, but maybe it would have been enough simply trying another bra on!

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The star of the dress had to be the skirt – just to keep up with my original plan – so I’ve picked up another BHL pattern, that I hadn’t tried yet, the Zeena dress, in the shorter variation. I love those big pleats and how they use up a lot of fabric, perfect for showcasing a pretty material. I cut the skirt in a size 8 and only had to stretch the waist a bit, just to bring it in line with the seamlines of the bodice.

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Being winter, I decided to fully line the dress, and because it’s a holiday party dress, I used some delicious black silk! The full lining gives more structure to the garment, it also helps maintaining those pleats neatly in place and on top of that, what’s a better fabric than silk to be worn next to skin?!

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To complement and highlight the red roses and flowers of the print, I’ve made a matching belt in some red velveteen, leftover from my first Elisalex none the less! This is my favorite shade of red, bright and vivid – in fact I still find hard to part with that first go at the Elisalex, even if the fit is awful and I never wear it. I love to use leftovers, they always remind me of the previous make and I also like to keep track of all the garments I’ve been creating.

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I’m very happy with this mash-up and I’m sure I’ll make more versions of the Zeenalex. The Elisalex bodice, with its princess lines and back v-neckline, is my favorite bodice ever and I love it even more when paired with a full swingy skirt like this one.

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That’s all from me today, have a good week everyone!

Papercut Patterns || Saiph Tunic

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Happy New Year everyone! I know, I know it’s a bit too late to talk about Xmas and all that, but I’m so glad 2015 is finally over that I really wish myself and everyone else a glorious 2016! Anyhow… In between work and house renos, I managed to whip up something to wear during the festivities: it’s the Paparcut Patterns Saiph Tunic, from the Constellation collection – a loose fitting tunic with french darts and two hem variations. The back has a centre seam and features slit and loop closure.

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I think I’ve been attracted by this pattern for a few reasons: first of all it has just five pieces, so it’s pretty easy and quick to cut and sew; secondly it has long sleeves which means I can wear it without having to find a cardigan to go with it; and lastly, that circular skirt! I love circle skirts and I just couldn’t pass it.

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The fabric I’ve used it’s a very cheap market find and I have no idea about the content. The black isn’t tightly woven and during the sewing it unravelled very easily. It’s quite thick and also has a bit of give, which I found perfect for making a long sleeves dress. The metal silver threads are woven through the black, creating this sort of cheetah pattern I really like. It’s not a very soft material, but I think I’ll have no problems wearing this tunic next to skin and if it gets too scratchy I can still put a top underneath.

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I  did cut a muslin in a XS because I was really worried about fitting the sleeves and did my usual adjustments straight away: ½” forward shoulders – moving accordingly the sleeve cap too, and 5/8” sway back. Surprisingly the fit was quite right at this first go: I could move my arms up and down and reach easily without ripping the seams open – maybe thanks to the back slit too, and the only other adjustments I needed were moving the dart down by 1” and a 3/8” broad shoulders. I also lengthened the body of the dress by 5cm, but next time I’ll add this amount to the circular skirt instead, for a more balanced look.  

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The construction of the Saiph is pretty straight forward and it took me just a couple of hours to get it done. This sort of patterns really makes me happy: in one afternoon I can have a new pretty dress even if I don’t have much time for sewing! That said, Papercut instructions are as always well written  and to the point, it’s hard to go wrong with those patterns.

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As I said the fabric shredded like crazy, so I serged all the seam allowances before sewing the dress together. I was also worried about using the main fabric for the neck facing, being it quite thick and wiggly, but the interfacing and the heat of the iron worked a deal and I was able to use it. Basically the heat shrunk the material, giving it more stability. Luckily, I’ve interfaced the facing at the beginning and I realized in time that ironing this fabric was nearly impossible.

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This partly justify the wobbly seams and the even wobblier hem. I did my best with careful pressing, but the risk of melting this material was very high, so let’s pretend the seams are all nice and flat, shall we?

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I love how this dress turned out – the simplicity of the lines let the fabric shine and that back slit with that pretty button makes me want to wear this Saiph back to front. I’m a sucker for buttons and at the same market where I bought the fabric, I found an old lady selling all sorts of vintage/end of lines buttons and every time I go there, I pay her a visit just to get some. This one reminds me of Madonna’s bullet bras and I think it’s the perfect match for my silver cheetah print.

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For now that’s all from me, have an awesome weekend everyone! 

Papercut Patterns / Fall Turtleneck

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Hello everyone! it’s been AGES since my last post, but life sometimes sucks and basically that’s why I’ve been away from my sewing machine and blog too. I’ve been trying to make something, because you know, it’s hard not to think about sewing and knitting all the pretty things even when you’re in an extremely bad mood, so here I am with a new top!
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Since moving back to Italy my wardrobe was in desperate need of long sleeve garments and as the weather is quickly turning cooler and cooler, a turtleneck sounded perfect. I love Papercut Patterns latest collection Chameleon and I was really itching to try the Rise and Fall Turtlenecks pattern. As the name suggests, it comes in two options- a more fitted version (Rise) and a dropped shoulders loose fitting variation (Fall), which is the one I made.
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The fabric is a lightweight jersey, of unknown content, most probably polyester and viscose, but with a nice hand and drape. I really like the exagerated leopard print – it really goes well with jeans for a casual look or paired with black for a more elegant stype.
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Based on the finished measurements, I cut a XS and added 5 cm to the body lenght. I also did my usual 1/2″ forward shoulders adjustment. This top goes together extremely quickly and for the first time I’ve sewn up the whole thing on my overlocker and I’m stoked by how much faster the whole process is. The seams don’t stretch much, so I guess I’ve used a too high differential feed speed, what do you al think? Any thoughts on the subject?
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Before hemming I’ve tried the top on, as I noticed it looked a bit skimpy, and in fact it was too short on both sleeves and body. To solve the problem I’ve added bands made of self fabric to every hem allowance, adding a couple of cm to the slevees and about 6 to the body. For a proper cold-proof top, I think I could do with an even longer body, so next time I’ll lenghten the pattern accordingly.
The turtleneck itself is very comfortable. I don’t usually like this sort of neck finishings because I find them constricting, but this one is pretty loose and it doesn’t chocke me at all, therefore thumbs up!
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The Fall (or Rise) Turtleneck is a super quick make and in just a few hours you can have a brand new top, that’s another reason I chose this pattern. At the moment I don’t have much time to dedicate to sewing and I’m happy of being able to put my hands on these kind of patterns – easy and stylish, but also very rewarding makes. On top of that, with the winter just around the corner and a new lifestyle, I find myself reaching always more and more for simple garments, easy to wear and to take care of. I don’t wear skirts or dresses daily any more, like I used to in Australia, but I live in jeans or leggings and pullovers instead, so my sewing has to change too. Despite how much I love making pretty dresses, I’ve to admit they don’t fit in my wardrobe any more – or at least for now! – and I should try to concentrate my little attention onto pants, jumpers, cardigans and coats instead.
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That said, I’ve been already nauty and cut a cute shining dress for the upcoming Holidays, but on the other hand I’ve been more sensible and  bought the new gorgeous pattern by Closet Case Files, the Clare Coat. I’m really set on making one very soon and can’t wait to find the time to do it, hopefully before Xmas (ok, that’s just dreaming!). In the meantime it’s better if I go painting my new house or it won’t be ready any time soon!
Have a good sunday everyone!

Papercut Patterns | Sway Dress

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Can you believe it, after nearly three looooong months, I’ve finally sewn something up? Yep, I’ve got sort of organized: I found a super basic Singer at home and decided to give it a go, plus I bought a brand new shiny Bernina 800DL overlocker and with the help of these two, I declared myself ready to sew again! The Singer is doing her job, but oh boy, it really is a pain in the bum sewing with it. The foot is so sleek that the fabric shifts around every few inches and doing a very easy task as a straight seam, becomes a job! Anyhow, I managed to get sort of used to it and made myself a dress. Because I knew the Singer wouldn’t cope with complicated seams or too many layers of fabric, I went for a very easy pattern and chose the Sway Dress by Papercut Patterns.

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The Sway Dress is a sleeveless tent dress, very loose fitting and available in two lengths. I went for the mini version as I wasn’t sure I’d like this shape on me and didn’t want to waste any precious fabric. The dress has vertical central seams and it comes with a scooped neck at the back and a V neck at the front, but it can be styled back to front without any changes. It also feature side seam pockets which I omitted, just because I didn’t have any suitable fabric on hand to cut them out.

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For the short version, Papercut recommends using a light to medium weight fabric with body, such as cotton, linen or wool suiting, and the one I bought few weeks ago in Bologna turned out to be perfect. This royal blue material is a silk and wool blend and for what I can figure out looking at it, I think the wool is the base, with large blue flowers, and the silk is woven through it creating the smaller flowers floating on top of the others, like a sort of embroidery. It has a beautiful hand and drape and it’s quite soft considering the presence of wool. I know wool should be dry cleaned, but I washed in cold water a small sample and nothing happened so I decided to go ahead and hand-washed the whole yardage. This way I can take care of the dress by myself.

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The fabric was quite narrow, I think about 110cm, so I needed more than what the pattern recommends, but I forgot to check how many metres I’ve actually used. Also, unusually for me, this time I followed the cutting layout suggested and positioned the front pieces upside down compared to the back ones. I never do that because I often use directional fabrics, but here I couldn’t do any different, otherwise I wouldn’t have enough fabric to cut the whole dress out. Luckily the print didn’t change much viewed from one side or another.

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With Papercut Patterns I fall in between sizes, so I traced in between a S and XS for the bust, S for the sleeve armholes depth, and then grading down to an XXS for the hips, and again S for the hem. I did my usual alteration of ½” forward shoulders – of course to do so I had to decide with neckline I wanted at the front – and I also removed 3 cm from each front and back side seam, slightly reducing the dress hem circumference. I drew the side seam allowances, cut along the line starting at the hem and finishing at the underarm SA and then overlapping the SA at the hem by 3cm, removing the excess. I’m happy with the general fit, but probably I’d raise the armholes a bit if I had to wear this dress in summer, without any tops under it. I think they are a tad too low. Also, the dress resulted being longer at the back, I’m not sure if it ‘s still a forward shoulders problem or I need to address some other fitting problems instead. Any suggestions?

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Working with this fabric was quite easy as the different layers of wool gripped to each other without shifting around, which has been extremely good when using the Singer sewing machine. Also, the stitching has been like absorbed by the fuzziness of the material and is barely visible. I love when this happens! This was particularly helpful when I decided to secure the facings down, stitching in the ditch in the side and center back seam.

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I really love sewing with wool and to make the ironing easier and crispier, I’ve asked my dad to make me a wooden clapper. He came home with this huge smooth block of untreated wood on which he attached this cute handle he once found in a river. I’ve never used a clapper before and I’m impressed by how smoother the seam allowances are once you let them cool down under the weight of the clapper. The seams are really perfectly pressed and flat, it’s amazing how a so simple tool can make such a difference!

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The Sway Dress is a very easy pattern, with just five pattern pieces, if you count the pockets too. It goes together very quickly, but this doesn’t mean the instructions and methods of construction are uninteresting. In fact, the way the facings are attached to the rest of the dress is very clever and it gives a professional finish to the garment. It’s basically the same burrito method used to sew shirt’s yokes, but instead of rolling the body up towards the shoulders, here you do it sideways.

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I’ve finished all the seam allowances with the serger and matching blue thread and because the dress was already quite short, I decided to forgo the hem and finish it with a three thread overlock stitch instead. I’m very happy with how this Bernina works and can’t wait to get creative with it, trying new stitches and finishes. Also, as this fabric has a bit of give, I’ve stabilized the V neck and shoulders with some very lightweight tape, just in case.

 

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Here I’ve styled the Sway Dress with a H&M cotton turtleneck, as seen on the Papercut Chameleon Collection look-book. I’m really itching to sew their Rise & Fall Turtleneck, I’ve got already the perfect fabric for it and as I write my knitting and sewing gear arrived safe and sound from Australia!!! Give me just a few more days and I’ll be on a roll and sew all the things!

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The Sway Dress has certainly not the silhouette I usually go for, being a very loose fitting garment, but I think I really got caught because of the Papercut gorgeous photos. The length of the dress is almost prohibitive, but I guess it’s what makes a dress of this shape perfect. Plus, I unexpectedly got heaps of compliments the first time I wore it, so it must be a nice dress, right?

I’m off to unpack all my stuff now, I need to find that certain piece of knit fabric I was talking you about! Have a good weekend everyone!

P.S. My BFF Marti Tiso took these gorgeous photos and if you need an awesome young photographer, she’s the one!

Knitting heroes // Stephen West

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Happy November everyone! How was your Halloween? I just got back from an amazing weekend near Milan and I’m still so excited about it, that I’ve decided to share with you what I’ve been up to.
After four long years, I’ve finally went back to my favourite Italian yarn shop, Unfilodi, where I met up again with the owner, Luisa, and a few knitting friends from the past. Needless to say, I had a blast! I really missed visiting this shop during my stay in Australia and I’m happy to be back and be part again of this awesome bunch of people. Knitters are great, let me tell you.
Anyhow, do you wanna know what, or better who, brought me there?!? Nothing less than one of my knitting heroes, Stephen West! I’m using way too many exclamation marks and you can guess by that how freaking happy I am to have had the pleasure to meet him! What made everything even more special, it’s the fact that this was the only Italian stop of Stephen’s European Tour. Cool, right?

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Stephen arrived on Friday and Luisa and I went to the airport to pick him up, using a very special sign. This is my very own version of one of his shawl patterns, Esjan, which now belongs to my sister.

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Stephen was in Knithouse on Friday afternoon, talking about his love for colors, showing everyone his beautiful garment samples and teaching how to knit the brioche stitch, his latest addition. He used two of his patterns, the Askwes Me Shawl and the Bundled in Brioche scarf. It has been very interesting listening to his color-approach and talking about all the different color options the brioche offers, it really is a cool stitch to play with and if you like pairing and combining colors you really should try it! It may be a bit complicated at the beginning, but once you get the hung of it, it gets easier and easier and it gets super fun.
On Saturday morning Stephen was back at Unfilodi, this time talking and dancing and teaching about short rows, or shorcat rows as he funnily calls them, with the support of another pattern, Dotted Rays. And in the evening we had more fun chatting about knitting and trying on his colourful and crazy samples.

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I personally didn’t knit a stitch, as I was asked to be the interpreter for the occasion, but also because I was too busy chatting with everyone and just having a very good time!
I’m a huge fan of West and I still can’t believe I met him. For the non-knitters, this might sounds sort of crazy, but I hope there is someone out there that can understand my happiness!
Anyhow, do you wanna know what I learnt from this hero of mine? Here you go!

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1. Stephen said he never chooses all the colors all together, but he begins instead with a combo or trio that he likes and then he keeps adding colors and textures to them as the knitting grows. This is very unlike me. I like to have everything planned beforehand and being organised, but I’ll try to play with this concept and experiment with color combinations a bit more, which brings us to the next point:
2. If you want to knit something, then do it, but do it crazy. I totally agree with this. Maybe I don’t often go for very crazy patterns or yarns or colours, but I always look for something different to knit. With different I mean something I can’t find in RTW stuff and that I can only have. This often means easy patterns, but specials yarns or limited edition colourways, not super bright things, but still unique. After seeing and trying on Stephen’s samples thou, I’m ready to give unusual shapes and color combos a go and honestly, I’ve already bought another pattern of his, Parachutey. I tried it on and loved it straight away!
3. Short rows were invented by someone who got bored of knitting, walked away from his/her work leaving half a row done, then came back to it, forgot where he/she was up to and knitted back. Strange idea about how a knitting technique was born, isn’t it? Anyhow, I think short rows are like magic and they can shape and dramatically transform a garment and I’m pretty confident Stephen shares my same opinion.
4. Last, but not least, if you start knitting a scarf or a pair of socks, you might end up with a jumper instead. I reckon this resumes very well Stephen’s knitting process. He declared some of his more famous patterns, like Enchanted Mesa and Royally Striped, were born right this way. So guys no worries, just knit happily and see what happens!

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And see that awesome purple, red and pink shawl Stephen is holding in the photo above!? Yes darlings, it’s my own version of last year MKAL, Exploration Station! His original sample is instead the neon peach/graphite one at the bottom right hand corner. I can assure you, meeting Stephen is probably my personal 2015 knitting highlight and before I cut it off, let me tell you how tall and blond and beautiful he is IRL! I really hope to see him again somewhere, sometime, and in the meanwhile I count down for the beginning of his fifth MKAL, starting this Friday, November the 6th. I got my trio of yarns from Stephen and Penelope and can’t wait to cast on The Doodler! Are you joining in??

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That’s all from me….and sorry for the blurry phone pics, it’s all I got!

West Knits | Outer Space

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Hello peeps! It’s been a while since my last post, but life has been very busy around here and on top of that, I didn’t receive my stuff from Australia yet, so I’m still sewing machine-less. All my beloved patterns, fabrics and gear should be here soon thou, so fear not, I’ll be making my own clothes again in no time! In the meantime I’ve tried to use up some of my older yarn stash. I’ve lots and lots of odd skeins here in Italy, but as I said, not much time nor mojo at the moment, so I searched for an easy, fun and quick project to get back on track. Thus, here it comes Outer Space by Stephen West.
Outer Space is one of the patterns from the Westknits At Home collection and it’s the big brother of another of his designs, Enchanted Mesa. They share the same construction, but the yarns used to knit them are of different weight, being Outer Space knitted with chunky/bulky ones. I’ve tried to use as many yarns from my stash as possible and I’ve manged to buy just a couple, so I can call this one a good stash-busting project!

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From the top down, I’ve used Lana Grossa Linea Pura Organico in a sweet pale lilac. This yarn is very soft and fluffly, thus perfect for the ribbed collar and for staying next to the skin. The short rown section is done using Lana Grossa Feltro, the grey yarn, and some leftovers of navy Gatsby, by Sesia. As the name suggests, the Feltro yarn is 100% wool and very prone to felt, so I’ve to pay extra attention when washing and drying this garment. This yarn really dislike being agitated and twisted. The middle section of the pullover is knitted using another bulky yarn by Sesia, called Echos. I love its sublte variagation, these shades of purples, blues and magenta are beautiful and I think they create a nice transition towards the color of the last yarn. The dark purple is yet again another Sesia product, a heavy yarn weight called New Jersey.
I’ve previously knitted with some of the above yarns and I’m happy to have finally used the leftovers. You can see how Feltro knits up in this cardigan and Gatsy in this hat. Anyhow, I’m well known for never throwing away any yarns and it’s nice to use every single metre of them. I keep even the very last bits and I usually save them for provisionally cast ons or for keeping stitches on hold, so there is no wastege at all. I often splurge on yarns and I’m always attracted by the more expensive ones too, so it’s defenitely a must for me trying to use the lot.

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Outer Space is a top down pullover very cleverly constructed, as every other Stephen’s design by the way. It starts with a double ribbed turtleneck collar, followed by short rows with yarn over shaping to form the asymettrical yoke. Then, a bias stotckinette section creates the body. From there, another short rows sequence in garter stitch brings the fabric back to a straight waistline. The sleeves are ribbed and they can be pushed up the arm transforming the yoke into a warm draped shoulder wrap.

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Knitting a West Knits pattern is always fun and I’m often amazed by his creativity and boundless and accentric style. Outer Space is exactly this: a super stylish pullover created with unusual shaping, using bold colors and yarns. It’s a totally different way of thinking about a pullover and it’s interesting and extremely entertaining seeing the garment taking shape. I’ve to admit, I was certainly on a fence about the wearability of this project, but once I’ve blocked it and tried it on, I completely changed my mind. Whereas it’s obviously not so easy moving the arms with the yoke worn down, if you roll the sleeves up and drape the short rows around your shoulders, Outer Space becomes a toasty and comfy jumper. This is why I’ve knitted the sleeves a bit longer than the measurements suggested in the instructions – like so they still nearly reach my wrists even if pushed up.

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As I’m a loose knitter, I’ve used smaller size needles than the ones suggested in the pattern. I started with 7mm for the collar, changing to 8mm for the body and back to 5,5mm for the garter stitch section. My pullover is good as, but probably I could have gone up a needle size to get a slouchier garment, easier to wear and to move around in. I didn’t bother swatching, as usual, so that’s why I played it safe and used the neddles I thought were right, in fact I was worried to obtain an XXXL pullover I wouldn’t loved to wear. Wet blocking helped to stretch into measure the jumper and even if my Outer Space looks smaller than others I’ve seen on Ravelry, I’m happy with the fit.

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I really like this project and I can’t wait to show my Outer Space to Stephen himself, when I’ll meet him just in a few days time!!! My favorite Italian yarn shop, Unfilodi, organized a series of workshops over the Halloween weekend, in occasion of Stephen’s autumn european tour and I’ll be there. I’m very excited about the oppurtunity of meeting such an awesome designer and I can’t wait for next week to come!!!

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That’s all from me, have a spooky Halloween everyone, see you all in November!

Vulcan Spy // Take #4

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Happy Sunday peeps! This morning is pretty fresh outside and being Autumn just one day away, I’m getting ready for the upcoming cold weather. I really can’t wait for winter to be here and to be honest, I’m enjoying knitting stuff I’ll actually get to wear. All the things I’ve made in the last few years have always been set aside because where I wa living it was too warm, so I’m happy to finally put on all the wool garments I knitted. Anyhow, this is another project I’ve completed while traveling from Australia. I needed something small and easy to carry with me and a beanie fit the bill perfectly.

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The pattern I’ve used is yet again Vulcan Spy by La Maison Rililie, this is the fourth one I make. You can see number one, two and three here. I love this pattern from every point of view. It has a good amount of give because of the twisted stitches and it stretches over your head without loosing its shape, which is something I always look for when knitting hats. Also, even if it’s a small project, it’s full of interesting details, such as the short rows to shape the little ear flaps. The striped twisted stitches motif itself is fun too.

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On top of that, I find this pattern perfect for using up all those leftovers always hanging around in my stash. I never throw them away and they keep accumulating with every new pullover I make, so it’s good the clear some up without wasting them.

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For this Vulcan Spy, I’ve used the remnants from my Dessine Moi un Mouton, another pattern by La Maison Rililie, and my Vianne Cardigan by Andi Satterlund. Needless to say, the yarn is CY Traveller, the light fluoro orange is called The Nexus, the pink Tibet and the variegated Late Night Diner. I’m very happy with this combination of colors and I can’t wait to wear the beanie with the pink coat I want to sew.

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I’ve followed the instructions for the smallest size, my gauge being always looser than the ones recommended, but managed to use the suggested size needles, 2.5 – 3 and 3.5 mm. I’m not 100% happy with the pompom, to be honest I should have made it a bit fuller, but for the moment it stays. I’ll see how it wears.

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I didn’t received the boxes with my stash I sent from Australia yet, so at the moment I’m not knitting neither sewing, but I’ve plenty of ideas and my projects queue is getting longer and longer. Have you seen how beautiful is Rililie’s latest design, DrawingStraws? I love how she plays with stripes and different stitches and I’m already plotting color combinations to make one. I guess I could write a post about the winter wardrobe I’m planning to put together, there are tens of knit pullovers and lots of jackets, sweaters and pants to sew, it’s almost scary! Suggestions on how to make days last longer?!

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