Papercut Patterns – Flutter Tunic

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Hello everybody, how is your week going? Can you believe we are already in July and halfway into the year? Time flies, in fact it was only Sunday when I posted about my Vianne and here I am again. I’m so excited about this project, I couldn’t wait to share it! The pattern is the Flutter Tunic by Papercut, from their latest collection Chameleon. I really like Papercut new patterns and I bought a few already. This is the first one I made.

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It all started with a gorgeous floral cotton pique, in warm autumn colors – think gold, burnt red, brown, acid green and burgundy – paired with matching bias binding for neckline and sleeves. Actually, after posting a photo on Instagram, I found out that Kirsty was making one herself in a very similar print, you can see her gorgeous version here on her blog. Back to my story. Of course I didn’t bother making a muslin first and cut into my amazing fabric straight away. Huge error. Will I never learn? Probably not. Anyhow, the dress came out very cute, but the fit around the shoulders was completely off. The way they’re shaped doesn’t follow the lines of my body at all, so I had to toss this first try and start all over again. A couple of muslin later, I finally got something wearable and this is it.

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The fabric I’ve used is basically the same as my original Flutter, just a different print. I really like the slightly heavy weight of this material and I think it transforms those beautiful bell sleeves into amazing wings, which is the main reason I chose it. Also, the classic checks print take a more modern spin thanks to these bright and happy colors, resulting in a very fresh and contemporary fabric. On top of that, this fabric has a lovely texture too, sort of squares raised pattern like in a pique.

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Size wise, I cut a XS but with the length of the S. As I said, I had to alter the pattern a bit and these are the adjustments I made. I started from the top, so first things first, pivoting from the neck seam allowance, I moved forward the shoulder line by 3/8″. I then accordingly adjusted the sleeves simply removing 3/8″ from the front side seam and adding the same amount to the back, basically moving the whole underarm seam by the same amount I rotated the shoulder seam forward. This process is explained in the book ‘Fit for Real People’ and it actually works pretty well.

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Also a 3/4″ adjustment was needed for my broad shoulders. I’m still not quite sure about this alteration, but looking at everybody else’ Flutters, I noticed their sleeves were more dropped than mine, so I thought its a good idea adding some length to the shoulders. On top of that, I’ve slightly raised the sleeve cap as well, to make the sleeves drop a bit more and trying to let them fall parallel to the floor. This was quite an adventure as the sleeve cap in this pattern is nearly flat, but I managed to increase the height by about 1/2″.
After all this, the dress wouldn’t follow the contour of my shoulders yet, so I redraw the shoulder line, raising it by 3/8″ and lowering it by 1/2″ towards the neck. Basically a very square shoulders adjustment, I think. And bingo! It worked like a charm. My shoulders really drives me mad, I really should start exercising and try to straighten them.
That’s not all though, other few alterations were needed. I also have prominent shoulders blades, so I made room for my back enlarging it by 5/8″ each side. At the front instead, I did a 3/8″ FBA because there was a little pulling around my bust and also the side seams were slightly swinging towards the front. Once I earned some room for my boobies, I checked the position of the dart and decided to move it down by 5/8″.

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Lastly, flat derrière! I slashed the back pattern piece horizontally at the waist and removed 3/4″ of tissue, tapering to nothing at the sides. This distorted the back centre seam, which I have obviously forgotten to straighten and once I tried on the dress I realized it wasn’t sitting as nicely as it should have. Nothing mayor, I just re-stitched the seam and job done. I reckon I could do with even less back room, but I’ll try to modify the pattern further next time I make it.

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It sounds like a lot of work for such a simple pattern, but the hardest part for me is always fitting the shoulders area and the Flutter has very peculiar shoulder line and sleeves, so it took some time to get things right. On the plus side, this is a very easy pattern to put together and from tracing to cutting and sewing it can be easily done in one day. I love the lines of the Flutter Tunic I can’t wait to make the blouse version too, maybe with the longer bell sleeves, I think it would look extremely cute.

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I fell in love with the bias bound Papercut sample dress, so I decided to use the same technique to finish the neckline and the sleeves hem of mine. I could have gone for yellow or royal blue, but those aren’t my colors, black was out because it made the other color recess too much into the background, so I was happy when I found just the perfect shade of lilac. It creates a very summery look and it really makes this color stand out.

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For the hem, I’ve just folded under 1.5cm instead of the 2cm recommended, as the dress is already pretty short and I didn’t want to risk feeling uncomfortable when wearing it. Probably next time I’ll add an inch or two, so I don’t have to worry about flashing too much skin when I bend of sit down. I’m very happy with how this Flutter turned out and even if there is certainly room for more improvements, I call it a win!

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What’s on your sewing table this week? I’m already onto my second Papercut pattern, I’m making the YoYo Skirt with the leftovers of this Flutter and I’m already in love!

Andi Satterlund – Vianne Cardigan for #OAL2015

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Hello everyone and happy Sunday! Are you ready for another good dose of pink? Just warning you, because there is loads going on here. I might have exaggerated, but do you know what? I don’t care! That’s my mantra: sew and knit whatever makes you feel happy and feel good. Well, pink makes me extremely happy and I feel extremely good in wearing flamingos from head to toe! So there you have it, this is my finished outfit for the OAL2015!
You’ve seen the dress, today it’s the turn of my knitting item. I’ve decided to make Vianne by Andi Satterlund, aka Untangling Knots, because I think its shape suits nicely the lines of the Alder Shirtdress. The cardigan in fact features a slight curve at the back – created by the wide bias mesh panel – which resembles the dip hem of the dress.

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Vianne is knit seamlessly from the top down, working first back and front separately, then joining them at the underarms and continuing down with waist shaping to the bottom ribbing. The sleeve stitches are picked up around the armhole, the sleeve cap is shaped with short rows and then the sleeves are knit in the round.

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The yarn suggested for this pattern is DK, knit at a loose gauge to create a lighter weight fabric, so I of course dug into my stash and found some skeins of my precious Cephalopod Yarns perfect for this project. I usually don’t swatch any more when I use CY Traveller as I know I like it best knit with 3.5mm needles and I roughly know the number of stitches I need to make something which fits me right. This time, though, I tried to follow the pattern as much as I could, so I went up in needles size to get the suggested gauge. Vianne is knit with 5mm needles, but I’m a fairly loose knitter, so I used 4mm instead. I did get a fabric with more drape, but my row gauge was off – too loose – so I eliminated some rows in the shoulder to underarm area to counter for it.

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Also, I decided to work less waist decreases, just a total of four, because I don’t like too tight cardigans. Vianne should be worn with up to three inches of negative ease, but I find it a bit too much. I don’t like it when button bands gape and buttons come open. I don’t understand why this is a no-no in sewing, but some find it cute in knitting garments, go figure! Anyhow, I’m not negatively judging this pattern, it’s just my point of view on cardigans and in shirts in general. As you can see from the photos, the top button on my Vianne is open, exactly because it looked like it was about to explode. Funnily enough, the rest of the cardigan looks good, not too tight, so if I’m gonna knit this garment again, or I’ll add some stitches around the bust just to gain a couple of centimeters or I’ll remove the top button all together. We’ll see.
Anyhow, apart from the above changes, I otherwise followed the instructions for the size M. Once I reached the desired length, I’ve switched to 3.5mm needles and continued with the ribbing, which I twisted, because I like it better that way.

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I really like this little cardigan, but I’m not quite sure about the fit. I surely should have knit even less rows for the upper bust, the armholes are evidently too big and droopy. This is sort of fixed bunching up the sleeves and bringing the fabric more towards the underarms. It’s ok, but it’s not perfect. Also, I’m not a fan of this method for knitting the sleeves. I love the fact they are seamlessly worked top down and I love their shape, but the picking up of the stitches is a bit too evident, creating little holes all around the sleeve cap, which I’m not mad about. It’s probably my fault too, as I don’t often knit patterns using short rows to shape the sleeve cap and I’d probably do with some exercise, so that’s the result. I guess it’s not bad, I’m just being picky.

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Vianne is a quick knit and once you get the hang of the lace pattern, it’s very easy too. I’ve added a couple of stitch markers to help remind me where to start the different motif charts, that way was pretty straight forward recognizing where I was up to. This is certainly a sweet garment, both to make and wear. Now please, bear with me and excuse my face and the brightness in the image below, but I just wanted to post it because I really like the way the dress and cardigan look in the photo.

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Enough talking about numbers and fit, let me talk about the pink – or I’d better say the pinks! I’ve used three different colors for this project. The body and part of the sleeves are knit alternating two very similar pinks, Trinket Island and an Oddity – which I suppose was a batch went wrong of that exact color – two beautiful pinks with coral and pale pink accents, very summery (did I say pink?). The lower part of the sleeves is instead knit in Tibet, a more uniform bright pink (sorry, pink again!), which nonetheless mixes very well with the other two. The result reminds me of deep dyed fabrics or gradient yarns, changing slowly from a light to a darker shade. I really like it!

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The white background and the light pinks of my flamingo fabric are a strong contrast for the bold pink of my Vianne, but I think the shoes tie everything together. They have all the above colors and even if at the beginning I was a bit unsure about the pairing, now I’m looking at the photos, I’m totally sold!

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So, did you participate too to the OAL2015? What are your plans? Or which is your outfit, if you’ve already finished it? I’m curious to see them, so please, do tell me!

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You can find my Vianne on Ravelry, here.

Flamingo Alder Shirtdress for #OAL2015

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Hello everyone! It’s show holiday day here in Mackay, which means I’m at home, free from work, yay! I’ve a couple of makes awaiting blogging, so here we go!
I’m super excited about this dress, but even more about the shoes! They’re Miss L Fire Flamingo a Go-Go and as soon as I opened the box, a couple of months ago, I knew I needed to make a matching something to wear with them.

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It took me a while to find the right flamingo print – to be honest there are not many out there and the few I liked were either the wrong colors or material. Then I stumbled on this gorgeous dobby cotton by Lilly Pulitzer and the choice was made. I had never heard of Lilly before, but I felt immediately fascinated by her story and by how her prints became famous. Did you know she moved to Palm Beach in the late ’50, opened a juice stand and started sewing her own dresses with bright and bold prints to disguise the fruit stain on her clothing? Few years later Jacky Kennedy wore one of her shift dresses for a magazine cover and the Lilly craze begun. Isn’t this story awesome?

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If you look carefully enough, you can spot Lilly’s signature on the fabric, her trademark. Sometimes is less apparent and ‘Lilly’ is hard to see, but on this flamingo print is pretty easy to find. I’m not sure, but I think there are a couple of more signatures, apart from the red one. Can you see them?

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Anyway, I love the texture of this dobby cotton, with this sort of vertical stripes. It was a dream to cut and sew, just like butter. Look at those stitches and how they sink into the fabric, nearly disappearing, perfection. I used pale pink thread and I’m happy I didn’t go for a darker color as the print is loud and bright enough without any extra help.

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I’m not usually attracted by white background fabrics, but this one, with all the pinks, red, green and even fluoro orange, captured my attention straight away. I think it’s one of the best fabric, quality and design wise, I’ve ever bought (yet!).

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As you might have guessed by now, the pattern I used is again the Alder Shirtdress by Grainline Studio. I debated for days about which pattern to sew to best showcase this fabric, but all the long skirts and dresses I wanted to make required too much fabric and I had just over 1.5m. I though the Alder isn’t a too busy pattern with loads of pieces and at the same time has enough details to break the ‘monotony’ of the print, so Alder it was. Of course I had to play safe with pattern placement and cutting layout. I gave priority to the front pieces and tried to alternate the print rather than keep it aligned, staggering the flamingos in between the two front sections. I then matched the pocket, making it as invisible as possible and I did a fairly nice job, if I may say it myself!

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Then, I moved to the back and matched the lower bodice to the yoke. It came out pretty good, even if there are a couple of bird necks not perfectly aligned, but nothing too disappointing to make me want re-doing it. All the skirt, collar and button band pieces are cut in the remaining fabric available. I did so as I though they were going to be either gathered or too small to take care of print placement on them. All in all, I’m pretty happy with how everything turned out.

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As far as Alder construction goes, I don’t have much more to say I didn’t already mentioned before, as this is my fourth reiteration of this pattern. It looks like I just can’t get enough of it! Anyhow, I tested all the alterations I needed in my batik version and I’ve used the same pattern pieces for this one. No other adjustments were made, apart from moving the dart point up by 3/8″, so now it sits where I want it to. I’ve also trimmed off 3/8″ from the hem and I’m pretty sure I’ve done it in the previous Alder as well, I just forgot to mention it. I think now is about the hem of a size 4.

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For the collar, this time, I’ve followed another tutorial and technique, the one shown by Andrea of Four Square Walls. Basically you first sew the outer/interfaced collar stand to the shirt, then you attach the collar to it – of course already sewn together and top stitched – and finally you stitch the inner collar stand on top. The collar is sandwiched in between the two collar stand pieces and once you’ve stitched all the three pieces together to the shirt, you just have to flip them up, give them a good press and top stitch the collar stand closed. I think it’s the easiest way to sew a collar to a shirt I ever tried, so probably I’ll stick with this one from now on. If you, like me, are late to this party, head over to Andrea’s blog and have a look!

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To keep up with the the 1960s vibe of the print, I’ve been able to find just the perfect buttons. They are round, in plastic, faceted and optic white, can’t get any more ’60 than that, right?

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As usual, I’ve used bias binding for the hem. I was unsure if to go with contrast green or matching pink, but the lack of the right green thread in my stash decided for me, so pink won.

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I’ve used pink cotton voile for the inner yoke too, as I was worried the flamingo print would have been noticeable from the outside, confusing and overlapping with the outer images. Pale pink didn’t interfere with the overall look of the main fabric and at the same time is less boring than white while adding a bit of color to the inside of the dress too. (Please don’t pay attention to blue marks in the photo below, I’ve used a water soluble pen to mark the collar stand seam allowance and I didn’t wipe it off properly, ooooops).

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Last, but not least, this Flamingo Alder is my sewing entry for the #OAL2015 organized by Lauren and Andy. The Outfit Along mixes my two favorite hobbies, sewing and knitting, plus I’ve added shoes to the mix too, so there you go! Flamingos and pinks are my theme this year and I played around with them to create something special and unique to wear. Let’s be honest, I’m a bit obsessed with all things pink and the outfit I made last year had pink too.

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Anyhow, stay tuned to see my knitting piece and finished OAL2015 outfit, it’s on its way!

 

Grainline Studio – Morris in Gold

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Time for another Morris, everyone! I’ve got a good excuse though: the pattern is drafted to suit knit as well as stretch woven fabrics, so I just needed to check the look of this blazer in both of them.
For this second version, I’ve used a stretch sort of denim/twill in an awesome shade of gold. The color isn’t too yellow and I’d say it’s pale enough to be worn every day without looking too dressy. I really like it. The only downside of this material, it’s its stiffness and lack of drape, which created a more rigid blazer. That said, it’s still very comfy and easy to wear.

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This Morris isn’t actually for me, but for my sister. We’re lucky to fit in pretty much the same size clothes, so I’ve sewn it up in the same size as my polka dots one, which has plus 2.5 cm to the body length. I’ve also left there the forward shoulder adjustment as I want to believe my sister has my same posture problems. All right, let me be honest, I shamelessly hope she doesn’t like this sparkly jacket and she’s gonna send it back to me, so I can wear it!

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Anyhow, to tone down the all-gold look, I’ve added some cream piping to the collar seam and, because I like things to be match-y match-y, I’ve also finished the inside edges with cream bias binding. It was my first time using piping and everything went together very smoothly. I honestly thought it would have been way more difficult to handle, but I’ve probably chosen an easy fabric to work with, which made the task easier. Also, the piping helped keeping the collar into shape, preventing stretching.

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Unfortunately I can’t say the same for the bias binding I’ve used to finish the facings. Of course, binding with no stretch bias a stretch fabric isn’t ideal and it definitely gave me a hard time. The more difficult part was trying to finish the cuffs off and in the end I’ve just removed the bias and folded under the seam allowances as per pattern instructions. Next time I know better!

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I’d like to mention, I’ve finally been able to put my hands on some stretch fusible interfacing, which I bought in a little shop here in Mackay. It’s not as stretchy as I though it would be, but it certainly has more give than a regular one. I thought the fact I’ve used stable interfacing for my first Morris was the cause of the pooling at the blazer hem, but it happened this time too. Jen, in her sewalong, mentioned to add the interfacing to the front pieces too, to help stabilize the fabric, but I already started sewing so I had to skip the suggestion. Again, next time I know better. Instead I’ve catch stitched the facings down and solved the problem. On this woven plain color fabric, the stitches are more visible than in my previous version, but I don’t mind seeing those little dots/stitches, they remind me it’s a handmade garment. Right?

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Also, as I don’t like dealing with sewing small circumferences, I’ve sewn and understitched the cuff facings to the sleeves before setting those in. I really find it easier this way and again, I’ve stitched the facings in place by hand instead of by machine, just to keep things coherent.
Lastly, to prevent the shoulders from stretching out of shape, I’ve added a strip of thin ribbon to the seams. I’ve seen this step in basically every knit pattern I’ve done so I thought it would be a good idea use the same trick for this pattern too. It probably doesn’t make any difference, but it didn’t take me long and it didn’t add too much bulk to the seam either, so I think I’d do it again.

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I’m happy to finally have had the time to sew a stretch woven Morris and I’m very surprised it fits me pretty well, without too much fussing around with alterations. I’m even more surprised by the sleeves’ fit: if this gold number was mine, I could actually wear it and move my arms without problems, one of the things I’m always afraid of when I sew sleeved garments. I reckon all the folds you see on my sleeves are mainly caused by the heaviness of the fabric and not because of some fitting issue. Wow, at least I hope so!

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This is definitely not my last Morris, I tell you. In fact I’ve already bought some textured black wool knit for my third one. This time I might try to lengthen the sleeves to full length for a more year round blazer. It is a really great pattern! What’s your favorite one at the moment? And which one would you recommend for me to try?

Grainline Studio – Alder the Third

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Happy Friday to me! Yep, I’ve been working the whole weekend so I feel like Friday is finally here. How did your weekend go instead? Sewing or knitting anyone? After work I got the time – before it started raining again! – to take some photos of my latest make.
It’s my third Grainline Studio Alder Shirtdress (first and second one here) and I’ve to say, I love this dress! Every time I sew it, I find myself thinking about a way to remove the extra fullness around the waist, but in the end, I really like the original shape of this garment. Loose fitting, cool and easy to wear – perfect.

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I’ve basically made this version just to test some adjustments I’ve done to the paper pattern, so I could check the fit before cutting into one amazing fabric I bought for the 2015 Outfit Along dress I planned to make. (Un)fortunately I like this batik print very much, so I might end up knitting something to go with this dress too. I even have the right yarn colors, just need some damned time.

Anyhow, here there are some specs. I sewed my previous Alders without any alterations, but the fit around shoulders and bust wasn’t exactly great so I tried to alter the pattern to fix the problems. Size wise, I’ve traced an 8 for bust, grading to a 4 at the waist and from there to a 2 for the hips, and kept size 6 for the hem. First thing first, I’ve moved the dart up by 5/8″ and lengthened the bodice pieces by also 5/8″. Next time I’m gonna try to keep the dart where I moved it, but angle it differently, slightly higher as it doesn’t quite point to my apex yet.

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Then, as usual, I started with a 1/2″ forward shoulders adjustment, followed by a 1/2″ prominent shoulder blades adjustment. For the forward shoulders alteration, I’ve removed the 1/2″ from the front piece, pivoting at the seamline at the neck and then added the same amount back to the yoke piece. I added the 1/2″ not to the yoke seam line, but where the shoulder line sits, about 1″ towards the back, basically where the notch is. This doesn’t probably change the result of the adjustment, but it made more sense to me than following the instructions I found in many pattern alterations books. Looking at the photos, I’m not sure if I’ve a bit of square shoulders too, what do you think? I don’t know.

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I’ve also done a 1/2″ FBA. This added 1/2″ to the waist too, which I didn’t want, so I simply removed the same amount from the front side seam and brought it back to the original width, rather than creating a waist dart. After I tried the bodice on, I’ve decided to remove an extra little amount of fabric from the sides, so I’ve increased the seam allowances from the dart down, probably only by a 1/4″. And finally, I’ve done a sway back adjustment, eliminating the excess fabric from the back bodice piece and therefore leveling the waistline, which now sits (almost perfectly) parallel to the floor. I’m pretty happy with the overall fit, at least, if still not perfect, it certainly has improved from my previous two Alders.

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Also, I don’t know if you can see it from these photos, but my right shoulder is definitely more forward than the left one. I absolutely refuse to asymmetrically alter patterns for this issue, I’m sure I can do some specific exercises and resolve this problem at the source. Right, right?

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From this close up, it’s clear something went wrong with the construction of the collar, it’s way too far apart and not quite centered. Not a big deal though, as I don’t usually fully button up my shirts.

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I’m very proud of these button holes though, I think they look quite pretty, considering I’m using just a very basic 4 step-button-hole sewing machine. I’m also very happy to have chosen this perfect shade of jade for the thread, it really highlights this particular color present in the fabric.

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And of course I couldn’t resist using some matching bias binding for the armholes and hem, which I ended up cutting it shorter by 1/2″.

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That’s all from me, have a good week everyone, I’m off to cut my fourth Alder!

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Brooklyn Tweed – Ondawa Pullover

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Winter is here and I’ve to admit, in the last few days, the weather has finally been cooler. Nice. Just in time for this change of climate, I’ve finally finished my Ondawa! It’s a pullover, designed by Michele Wang for the Brooklyn Tweed collection Fall 2014. It has been in my queue since it came out and I finally got the time to knit it up. I’ve been craving to knit some complicated-looking pattern and Ondawa fit the bill perfectly. It has twisted ribbing, cables and traveling stitches and the knitting, while repetitive, it’s certainly enjoyable.

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As you may guess, I did some changes. The main one being using a different weight yarn. You all know my well documented love for Cephalopod Yarns and their amazing colors, so as usual, I’ve decided to use Traveller. This color – a wonderful red with pink undertones called Uluru – just screamed to be made in something with cables, so I listened. Ayers Rock glows this red at sunset and sunrise and let me tell you, it’s an amazing place. It has also a very coarse and eroded surface, with all those gullies and channels running through it and the cables in Ondawa remind of that too, so I guess, this is a sort of homepage to Australia, from my knitting point of view.

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The pullover is designed to be cropped, over-sized and with snugly fitted 3/4 sleeves. I didn’t want an overly wide garment and I knew I could achieve the size I wanted simply using Traveller and my usual 3.5mm needles. I didn’t bother knitting a gauge sample and I followed the instructions for 47 1/2″ size. I just knit more vertical repeats to get to the length I wanted and also lengthened the sleeves too as I plan to wear this awesome pullover during an Italian winter and believe me, you need long sleeves!

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Ondawa is basically made out of rectangles and both front and back are exactly the same. The sleeves are also rectangles which are joined to the body by seaming. The size of the neckline is easily adjustable as it is seamed as the rest of the body and I went for a less wide boat-neck, again because it’s gonna be cold.

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Obviously, you need to pay heaps of attention to all those cables and twisted stitches – I myself did some mistakes and had to let the stitches off the needles a few times to fix some – but apart from that, the construction of this pullover is very easy, with basically no shaping at all. After a few pattern repeats, you get the hang of it. The cables are easy to memorize and it becomes obvious when you have to twist them, without even looking at the charts any more. Also, cabling without cable needle improved immensely my knitting speed, I really recommend this technique to anyone who wants to knit a full-on-cable garment like this one. It really helps.

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The fabric of my Ondawa is pretty heavy and I hope the neckline ribbing is gonna hold its shape and not gonna wear out too soon. I thought about using smaller needles for the edgings but I was worried about changing the overall shape of the garment too much, so I stuck with the pattern instructions and I’ll see what happens.

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I really enjoyed knitting this pullover and loved twisting every single cable. I’m pleased with how it turned out, even if I’m not completely sure this sort of cropped and swingy pull is flattering for my figure. Probably I should have added a few more vertical repeats to earn some more length. That said, I’ve no doubts I’m gonna wear this Ondawa a lot, I just love the rich color and the textured fabric too and I’m sure is gonna look awesome worn over a pair of jeans (which, believe it or not, I don’t have any here in Australia!).

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That’s it from me, what are you making instead?

Lily Sage and Co – The Wonderland Skirt

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Hello everybody and happy winter to those living in the Southern Hemisphere! I bet I don’t need to tell you that winter here, in tropical Queensland, means still pretty nice temperatures and the only cool air we are lucky to get is during the night. That said, this year I still have to wear a jacket. This sort of winter drives me mad and can’t wait to see and enjoy the snow again. Anyhow….

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Today I’ve another test garment to show you and it happens to be another skirt. Skirts are by far my favorite sewing projects. I find them easier to fit my figure and quick to make and when I see one, I simply cannot resist. This is Lily Sage and Co Wonderland Skirt, “a hip-flattering, gathered skirt, with a graduated yoke and hem. View A has a simple, seamless front yoke. View B includes the option of pockets and contrast panels in the front yoke. The skirt fastens with an invisible zipper in the back. The length of the skirt can be easily modified to a maxi-length, midi-length, or even a flippy mini”. The pattern was released a few weeks ago and Debbie published already another one, the Branson Top.

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I made this first version in poly Gabardine, a medium weight fabric, in navy. The dark color wasn’t very easy to photograph and I had to edit the photos to make the skirt more visible. So please don’t pay too much attention to my funny skin color! I made variation 1, pocket-less. I cut a size 10, grading to a 8 at the hips and it fit perfectly, without any other alterations. Usually, I’ve to take in a fair bit around the hips area, but not in this case. I’ve followed the instructions step by step and the only thing I made differently, or better I’ve added, was to topstich the gathered panels to the yoke as the seam was a bit too bulky there and too visible from the outside. Next time I’ll probably add a lining, I think the fitted yoke will look better with one. You can find a tutorial on Debbie’s blog on how to do it.

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I really like the high-low hem of the Wonderland Skirt and I’m itching to sew one in some sheer fabric, with lots of body, Del Pozo style, maybe adding horsehair braid to the hem too. I wear this skirt with heels, otherwise it wouldn’t be very flattering on me, because of its length. For a more casual version, I’ll probably cut a bit of hem off. And of course, I wouldn’t mind trying a full length option too. As always, so many ideas and not enough time. This week end thought, I’ll be home and I have already planned a sewing-marathon, who’s gonna join me?