It’s official, I love making jackets! Before you wonder, this is another Papercut pattern from their latest collection, Chameleon. It’s the Waver Jacket, a jacket – duh! – available in two different length, with hood, front patch pockets, buttons closure and optional waist drawstring. And if all this wasn’t enough to make me sew one, it’s fully lined too! A win win.
I’ve decided to try the shorter version first, mainly to check the fit and the necessity of any alterations. I traced a size XS as I find Papercut Patterns sizing running a bit large. In fact, following the chart on the pattern envelope, I should have cut an S, but the amount of ease would have been way too much for me, so I sized down. Here I’m wearing it with the Ondawa Pullover I made a while ago and I’m happy with the fit of the jacket, it’s very comfortable.
I didn’t make any adjustments to the pattern and that’s probably why I like sewing jackets so much, above all when they’ve raglan sleeves. This sort of sleeves are way more forgiving than set-in ones. Thus, for someone like me, who needs quite a few alterations to fit properly the shoulders and back areas, the sewing process is extremely more fun and relaxing.
I told you already that I’m in a green mood at the moment, so it’s not a big surprise I went for a military green chevron corduroy for the main fabric. It’s medium weight, which I think will be perfect for autumn or early spring. It was very easy to sew and the stitches just disappeared in it, but what gave me problems was the washing. I pre-washed the yardage in a cold water cycle and let it hung to dry. The result? A tremendously creased fabric that I couldn’t get smooth again, not even with loads of steam. So, following the suggestion of Instagram friends, I’ve washed it again and set the spin at a lower speed, then I put it in the dryer. It worked like a charm! I was so worried I wouldn’t have been able to get the wrinkles off, I nearly thrown this corduroy in the bin. Lucky me I posted a photo on Instagram. It’s already the second make I save because some genius people help me out of trouble! Thank you ladies!
Back to the fabrics. Because the shell is a plain color, I decided to go wild with the lining. I love floral fantasies and I’m a fan of reds and pinks too, so I simply couldn’t resist this lovely polyester satin. On top of being a romantic print, with butterflies too, the green of the leaves recalls the outer fabric color, creating a lovely green echo through the garment.
This lightweight satin has a little stretch, which ended up being a bit of a pain to sew. Some of the pieces stretched out and I had to create little tiny pleats now and then to make them fit into the shell. Not a big deal of course, but if I’m gonna use this sort of material again, I’ll probably staystitch the curved edges to avoid this kind of problems.
Also, I decided to use a different fabric for the hood lining. I thought the corduroy would have created a too heavy hood and while I love the roses print of the lining, I think it would have influenced too much what to wear with it. The chino drill I used for my Tap Shorts happened to be the perfect shade of green, so I’ve used that. I’m super happy with how all these three different materials go together and I think I’ll get a lot of wear out of this jacket.
I’m extremely happy with the buttons too. They’re green and black and they’ve a chevron pattern that matches the corduroy very well. At the beginning, I was on a fence about their size, looking slightly too small. Then, again, another Instagram sewing pal, suggested to decrease the space between them and to use 6 instead of the 4 recommended. Guess what? The higher number of buttons balanced out the smaller size, ending up in a perfect look.
The Waver Jacket was a pleasure to sew. I took my time, enjoying the process and trying to pay as much attention as possible to every detail. I followed the instructions to the letter, but I’ve done a couple of things differently. I bagged the lining following Jen’s tutorial, this way I didn’t need to hand stitch the sleeves lining to the facings by hand. Also, as Jen suggests both in the above post and here too, I’ve added thread chains to connect the lining to the shell at the underarms, anchoring the two together to avoid lining shifting when putting on and removing the jacket. They’re very easy to make and they certainly help keeping things in place. Finally, I’ve understiched the lining to the self facings all the way around the fronts and neckline, even if it wasn’t mentioned in the instructions. I think it’s a good practice and it didn’t take long, so why not?
I love this jacket and I’ve already planned a longer version in a heavier material, in winter style. Also, to make it really perfect, I’d like to add a string around the hood too, to help keeping in on when it’s cold and also to sort of release some of the tension in the hood-to-neckline joint. I think there is a bit of stress going on there and I’m worried, with time, the weight of the hood will deform the front neckline. We’ll see what happens.
Now I’m off to finish packing this and most of all my other sewing projects, to ship them home, along with all my knitting gear. Seeing all my stuff all together in boxes made me realize I really have loads of fabrics and yarns to go through, so I really should try not to buy any more (for a while). But really, who believes that? Do you also have an unbelievable amount of materials and balls of yarn hidden under your bed, in your closet and in every other possible spot? Please, tell me I’m not the only one!