Hello everybody, how is your week going? Can you believe we are already in July and halfway into the year? Time flies, in fact it was only Sunday when I posted about my Vianne and here I am again. I’m so excited about this project, I couldn’t wait to share it! The pattern is the Flutter Tunic by Papercut, from their latest collection Chameleon. I really like Papercut new patterns and I bought a few already. This is the first one I made.
It all started with a gorgeous floral cotton pique, in warm autumn colors – think gold, burnt red, brown, acid green and burgundy – paired with matching bias binding for neckline and sleeves. Actually, after posting a photo on Instagram, I found out that Kirsty was making one herself in a very similar print, you can see her gorgeous version here on her blog. Back to my story. Of course I didn’t bother making a muslin first and cut into my amazing fabric straight away. Huge error. Will I never learn? Probably not. Anyhow, the dress came out very cute, but the fit around the shoulders was completely off. The way they’re shaped doesn’t follow the lines of my body at all, so I had to toss this first try and start all over again. A couple of muslin later, I finally got something wearable and this is it.
The fabric I’ve used is basically the same as my original Flutter, just a different print. I really like the slightly heavy weight of this material and I think it transforms those beautiful bell sleeves into amazing wings, which is the main reason I chose it. Also, the classic checks print take a more modern spin thanks to these bright and happy colors, resulting in a very fresh and contemporary fabric. On top of that, this fabric has a lovely texture too, sort of squares raised pattern like in a pique.
Size wise, I cut a XS but with the length of the S. As I said, I had to alter the pattern a bit and these are the adjustments I made. I started from the top, so first things first, pivoting from the neck seam allowance, I moved forward the shoulder line by 3/8″. I then accordingly adjusted the sleeves simply removing 3/8″ from the front side seam and adding the same amount to the back, basically moving the whole underarm seam by the same amount I rotated the shoulder seam forward. This process is explained in the book ‘Fit for Real People’ and it actually works pretty well.
Also a 3/4″ adjustment was needed for my broad shoulders. I’m still not quite sure about this alteration, but looking at everybody else’ Flutters, I noticed their sleeves were more dropped than mine, so I thought its a good idea adding some length to the shoulders. On top of that, I’ve slightly raised the sleeve cap as well, to make the sleeves drop a bit more and trying to let them fall parallel to the floor. This was quite an adventure as the sleeve cap in this pattern is nearly flat, but I managed to increase the height by about 1/2″.
After all this, the dress wouldn’t follow the contour of my shoulders yet, so I redraw the shoulder line, raising it by 3/8″ and lowering it by 1/2″ towards the neck. Basically a very square shoulders adjustment, I think. And bingo! It worked like a charm. My shoulders really drives me mad, I really should start exercising and try to straighten them.
That’s not all though, other few alterations were needed. I also have prominent shoulders blades, so I made room for my back enlarging it by 5/8″ each side. At the front instead, I did a 3/8″ FBA because there was a little pulling around my bust and also the side seams were slightly swinging towards the front. Once I earned some room for my boobies, I checked the position of the dart and decided to move it down by 5/8″.
Lastly, flat derrière! I slashed the back pattern piece horizontally at the waist and removed 3/4″ of tissue, tapering to nothing at the sides. This distorted the back centre seam, which I have obviously forgotten to straighten and once I tried on the dress I realized it wasn’t sitting as nicely as it should have. Nothing mayor, I just re-stitched the seam and job done. I reckon I could do with even less back room, but I’ll try to modify the pattern further next time I make it.
It sounds like a lot of work for such a simple pattern, but the hardest part for me is always fitting the shoulders area and the Flutter has very peculiar shoulder line and sleeves, so it took some time to get things right. On the plus side, this is a very easy pattern to put together and from tracing to cutting and sewing it can be easily done in one day. I love the lines of the Flutter Tunic I can’t wait to make the blouse version too, maybe with the longer bell sleeves, I think it would look extremely cute.
I fell in love with the bias bound Papercut sample dress, so I decided to use the same technique to finish the neckline and the sleeves hem of mine. I could have gone for yellow or royal blue, but those aren’t my colors, black was out because it made the other color recess too much into the background, so I was happy when I found just the perfect shade of lilac. It creates a very summery look and it really makes this color stand out.
For the hem, I’ve just folded under 1.5cm instead of the 2cm recommended, as the dress is already pretty short and I didn’t want to risk feeling uncomfortable when wearing it. Probably next time I’ll add an inch or two, so I don’t have to worry about flashing too much skin when I bend of sit down. I’m very happy with how this Flutter turned out and even if there is certainly room for more improvements, I call it a win!
What’s on your sewing table this week? I’m already onto my second Papercut pattern, I’m making the YoYo Skirt with the leftovers of this Flutter and I’m already in love!